Unknown Gobi

• Arrival in the Mongolian capital early in the morning. Handling of airport formalities and transfer to the hotel. The capital is less than 20 kilometers away. A country of plateaus and deserts, Mongolia is still today a land for travelers rather than tourists. The paved roads are limited to a single major axis that crosses the country from west to east, the means of transport, private and public, almost non-existent (the only real means of transport is the horse), the tourist facilities minimal. Surrounded by two powerful neighbors, China and Russia, and far from conflicts that bring it to the international news, Mongolia remains one of the most unknown countries in Asia and perhaps also one of the most fascinating. With its two million inhabitants, still largely nomadic today, scattered across steppes and deserts five times the size of Italy, it preserves the legacy of the greatest empire the world has ever seen and the most brilliant leader of all time, Genghis Khan. After having deposited the luggage at the hotel, we dedicate ourselves to visiting the capital which until a few decades ago had no houses, but only hundreds of white “gers”, the yurts of Mongolia, among which the colored roofs of Buddhist monasteries stood out. part of the city extends from east to west along the main avenue, called Enkh Taivny Orgon Choloo or more simply Peace Avenue, which flows into the central Sukhbaatar square. The extensive outlying suburbs are bounded by the four great mountains that surround the urban agglomeration: Chingeltei, Bayanzurkh, Bogdkhan and Songino Khairkhan. Most of the places of interest are located a short distance from Sukhbaatar Square overlooked by the Parliament Building, adorned with statues of the most famous Mongolian khans (rulers, leaders). One of the most appreciated qualities of Ulaanbaatar is the richness of the museum exhibits. Among these we will not fail to visit the National Museum of Mongolian History, sometimes still called the Museum of the Revolution, where artifacts dating back to the Stone Age, interesting collections of different Mongolian ethnic groups and numerous relics from the Mongolian horde period are exhibited. (We will check on the spot if it will be possible and appropriate to visit the temporary exhibition of the Natural History Museum at the beginning or end of the trip, currently closed for renovation works). Full board and overnight in hotel. NB: 

• Early in the morning visit Gandan Monastery, whose name means “immense place of complete joy”, is one of the most fascinating places in Ulaanbaatar, a throbbing place of religious life and feeling, with its splendid temples decorated with gold and stones precious. It is one of the few monuments to have been spared from the destruction carried out by the Stalinists, who used it as an important tourist attraction. Gandan is the largest monastery in Mongolia and its original parts date back to 1838. It is home to over 500 monks and has the world’s largest standing Janraisig statue. It is the image of the Bodhisattva of compassion, a central figure of Buddhism of Tibetan origin. It is much loved because it represents the wise man who, despite having achieved the possibility of accessing “nirvana” through his goodness, renounces it and remains in the world in order to help men achieve salvation. He is also known as Avolikiteshvara, and the Dalai Lama is believed to be an incarnation of him. The statue now existing in place of the one removed during the Stalinist period is almost 27 meters high, weighs 20 tons and features gold interventions. It has a hollow structure that contains many offers, adorned with precious stones, silks, millions of “mantras” (prayers, magical and mystical formulas), many “sutras” (books or scriptures, even in the form of scrolls, which contain Buddhist rules) . We then leave the capital and with our off-road vehicles we set off in a southerly direction, towards the remote and deserted plain of the Dundgobi province, literally “the center of the Gobi”. Gobi means desert. But desert is not synonymous with dunes and sand. For this reason, going to the Gobi region it is necessary to know that it is an immense expanse in which very different environments coexist, both in relation to the characteristics of the territory and with reference to the presence of animals and human communities. The Gobi occupies about a third of the entire surface of Mongolia and dominates the territory unchallenged for kilometers and kilometers of uniform expanses. Its name therefore evokes desolate lands and extreme environmental conditions, almost completely hostile to survival. But it also evokes landscapes of uncontainable beauty and absolute charm: salt lakes, sandy expanses and canyons with red rocks that at sunset seem to catch fire in the reflections of the last rays of the sun. Legend has it that the Gobi was created by the passage of the massive armies of Genghis Khan, but in reality the numerous fossils that make it up testify that its territory, rich in water and vegetation, was once an ideal habitat for dinosaurs. Today the Gobi is inhabited by some nomadic tribes and some faunal rarities, such as the wild ass (Khulan), the Prewalski horse (Takhi), an endemic antelope (Saiga) and the Gobi bear, which is why it was declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. On its territory there are also splendid monasteries and other fascinating testimonies of history and culture. There are no paved roads, but the local tracks are often in good condition and sometimes even allow speeds between 80 and 100 kilometers per hour. After about 4 hours we reach Baga Gazriin Chuluu, a granite rock formation that rises isolated from the surrounding plain. Legend has it that in the 1800s two revered monks lived in the area taking shelter in the remains of gers. The rocks are worshiped by the locals who occasionally come to visit them on pilgrimage. According to another legend, Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) himself visited them. In the surroundings there are many springs and the peculiarity of the area are the rock formations with unusual shapes, often with “ovoo” (literally pile of stones) on the top. Full board and overnight in ger camp. NB: The fields listed below may undergo changes for operational reasons and be replaced by fields of the same level Legend has it that in the 1800s two revered monks lived in the area taking shelter in the remains of gers. The rocks are worshiped by the locals who occasionally come to visit them on pilgrimage. According to another legend, Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) himself visited them. In the surroundings there are many springs and the peculiarity of the area are the rock formations with unusual shapes, often with “ovoo” (literally pile of stones) on the top. Full board and overnight in ger camp. NB: The fields listed below may undergo changes for operational reasons and be replaced by fields of the same level Legend has it that in the 1800s two revered monks lived in the area taking shelter in the remains of gers. The rocks are worshiped by the locals who occasionally come to visit them on pilgrimage. According to another legend, Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) himself visited them. In the surroundings there are many springs and the peculiarity of the area are the rock formations with unusual shapes, often with “ovoo” (literally pile of stones) on the top. Full board and overnight in ger camp. NB: The fields listed below may undergo changes for operational reasons and be replaced by fields of the same level According to another legend, Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) himself visited them. In the surroundings there are many springs and the peculiarity of the area are the rock formations with unusual shapes, often with “ovoo” (literally pile of stones) on the top. Full board and overnight in ger camp. NB: The fields listed below may undergo changes for operational reasons and be replaced by fields of the same level According to another legend, Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) himself visited them. In the surroundings there are many springs and the peculiarity of the area are the rock formations with unusual shapes, often with “ovoo” (literally pile of stones) on the top. Full board and overnight in ger camp. NB: The fields listed below may undergo changes for operational reasons and be replaced by fields of the same level  

We continue south, through beautiful landscapes, to reach a lively area of ​​valleys dotted with slate, where the ancient inhabitants of Mongolia have left their traces. The area was once a placid seabed, as evidenced by the finds that abound in the soil. Today, it sports the dry, gloomy beauty of the arid areas. Rock engravings, which represent characters and animals, increase its charm. Suddenly a clear sandstone cliff appears in the plain which is called the “White Stupa”. It is a sandstone hill 30 meters high which owes its very strange shape due to water and wind erosion. Full board. Dinner and overnight in ger camp.

We enter the heart of the Gobi desert. We are in the Umnugobi (South Gobi) province, the region with the largest surface area and the lowest density in Mongolia. We head towards the Valley of the Eagles, Yoliin Am, a long narrow and rocky gorge at about 2,500 meters of altitude, with high sheer walls that shade some areas of the valley throughout the year allowing the preservation of deep layers and ice candles . The wild fauna in the area is abundant (ibexes, eagles, falcons, griffon vultures…) and the desert flora is very varied. These areas are included within the Gurvan Saikhan National Park which includes the mountain range of the same name, the “Three Beauties” peaks, which is the easternmost part of the Altai Mountains. The landscape is very interesting and it is surprising that such an environment can be found in the Gobi desert. Overall, the park is characterized by the presence of over 600 types of plants, 200 of birds and then some species that are difficult to identify and at risk of extinction, such as rare wild donkeys and camels, as well as the snow leopard and the Gobi bear. Full board and overnight in ger camp.

In addition to the Valley of the Eagles, the other obligatory destination of the park are the highest sand dunes of the Gobi. We reach them by crossing a very remote region where, if lucky, it is possible to spot small herds of gazelles and kulans (the wild asses of Central Asia). The Khongorin Els (known as the “singing dunes”, “Duut Mankhan”) are certainly among the most majestic in Mongolia. The name seems to take its cue from the wind that impacts against the dunes causing a sound which, according to some, could have been imitated by the Mongols and constitute the reference for that strange “throat song” typical of desert nomads. The belt of high sand dunes extends for a length of about 150 km. This is the ideal setting to spend a couple of days hiking or camel riding (optional) and admiring the landscape from the top of the dunes, at the base of which is an unexpected stream. Particoalrmente suggestive the sunset between the dunes that are tinged with all shades of ocher in which rock, sand and grass blend according to unexpected textures. Full board and overnight stays in ger camps.

We leave the Gobi and continue in a northerly direction, towards the central steppes and the Ongi Gol area. Scattered in space, gers of nomads are white. Visit the ruins of Ongiin Monastery. It is located on the edge of the central northern area of the Gobi region, characterized by the bends of the Ongiin river and the hills between which the monastery was built in the 18th century. It suffered the wrongs of the Stalinist period when its closure was imposed, and, although it has not been totally destroyed as happened to other sacred places, it retains very little of its old architectural attractions. In reality, these are two different structures, Barlim Khiid and Khutat Khiid, of which the harsh scenery in which they are inserted will be appreciated above all. In the past they also hosted 500 monks. After the reopening in the 90s and the “restoration” works, the complex is guarded by some monks who also take care of its maintenance. Full board with picnic lunch. Overnight in ger camp.

Breakfast and departure towards the valley of the Orkhon River, the longest in the country. The Orkhon Valley is an area rich in archaeological evidence as well as naturalistic beauties, where you can meet various nomadic families. The environment is engaging with aspects of volcanic territory, forests, prairies, canyons, monasteries, to which the locals have given the nickname of “paradise of horse breeders”. It is one of the two places in Mongolia included among the sites defined as World Heritage Sites by Unesco. Indeed, the Orkhon Valley is known as the cradle of Mongolian civilization because numerous ancient monuments lie within its borders. This area of the country is also famous for the production of the best “airag” in Mongolia, i.e. fermented mare’s milk. We will certainly have the opportunity to visit some shepherd families to savor their hospitality and discover different ways of life. Full board with picnic lunch and overnight stay in a ger camp.

Breakfast. We dedicate the first part of the day to exploring the valley. The most spectacular point is the very narrow canyon, squeezed between rock walls, into which the Orkhon river falls forming the Ulaan Tsutgalan, a waterfall that descends from a height of 20 meters and slips into the scenic canyon. The gorge and the surrounding woods they constitute a beautiful natural environment. Picnic lunch and continuation towards the Arkhangai province, one of the most beautiful areas of the country characterized by forests and green pastures, rivers full of water, extinct volcanoes, lakes of volcanic origin. Finally we reach the popular sulfur springs of Tsenkher , where it is possible to bathe in the warm waters that flow from the subsoil at 80°C. Relax, dinner and overnight in ger camp.

We set off again in the direction of ancient Karakorum, the city which, founded by Genghis Khan, became the capital of the Mongol empire. Along the way, we stop in the town of Tsetserleg, the provincial capital, where we visit the ethnographic museum located in the Zayan Gegeenii Sum monastery, built in 1586 and subsequently enlarged. The temples escaped Stalin’s purges precisely because the complex was transformed into a museum. Only a few ruins remain of Karakorum today, but enough to continue to offer strong interest for the historical significance, the architectural structures and the environmental scenario in which they are located. Known in antiquity for being a central caravan hub with a cosmopolitan character, it was characterized by large walls and gates that gave access to markets specialized in various products from various corners of Asia. The Mongol khans (rulers, chiefs) were rightly famous for their policy of religious tolerance which allowed coexistence between different cults. For this reason the city was adorned with many temples, monasteries, churches and mosques. But the fame of this city and the attraction it still exerts today, despite the irreproducible ancient magnificence, is also due to the relationship it had with Genghis Khan. It was he who moved the capital here in 1220, although it was his son Ogedei who built the structures that gave it the appearance of a truly important center of the empire. However, after only a few decades, his nephew Kublai changed the capital to the current location where Beijing stands. Thus Karakorum first suffered abandonment and destruction shortly after, when in 1388 it was sacked and destroyed by the Chinese. Full board and overnight in ger camp.

Near Karakorum visit to Erdene Zuu, a suggestive monastery surrounded by massive walls interrupted by 108 white “suburga” (stupa), as many as there are Buddhist rosary beads. Inside the walls there is a large stupa and numerous temples full of precious frescoes, statues, “tanka”, courtyards, prayer wheels, masks for dances, representations of many deities, tombstones, other stupas … It also boasts the presence of three important sacred buildings, erected in relation to three different phases of the Buddha’s life: childhood, adolescence, maturity. The temples of Erdene Zuu miraculously survived the destruction of the Stalinist period (almost all the monasteries were destroyed and thousands of monks were killed or deported) as they were covered with earth by the faithful who turned them into hills. The monastery built in 1586 and surrounded by walls of 400 m long, today brought to light, is one of the rare surviving ancient monasteries. Two interesting stone turtles, whose meaning and importance are a legacy of Chinese influence, are found outside the walls. Symbol of eternity, they indicated the entrance to the various buildings of the capital and had the function of protecting the city itself. They are the ones that remain of the four originally existing in the points that indicated the limits of the city. After lunch departure towards the Khogno Khan mountain, where the rocky peak of about 1,900 meters of altitude emerges in the plain. The landscape that we cross sums up much of the charm that nature emanates, the true mistress of this country Full board. Overnight in ger camp.

Breakfast and visit of the surroundings. In this area there are ruins of ancient monasteries of the 27th century scattered almost everywhere along the slopes of the mountain; among these also the ruins of the small Monastery of Uvgun that we visit. To the west of the Khogno Khan mountain are the sand dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai, where the green-spotted sand mixes with the colors of the steppe and the mountains. The dunes, known locally as Mongol Els, stretch for about 80 kilometres. After lunch at the ger camp, departure to return to the capital and, time permitting, stop at the cashmere factory. Dinner in a restaurant and overnight in hotel.

Breakfast and completion of visits. The elegant Winter Palace of Bogd Khan, where the eighth living Buddha and last king of Mongolia resided for twenty years, is one of those attractions that cannot be missed, with its small courtyards, frescoed panels and beautiful doors. Once through the large entrance door, there are rooms that keep special gifts from wealthy visitors (including boots given by the Russian tsar to the Buddha), stuffed animals, “tanka” (sacred paintings on fabrics), traditional costumes. of Choijin Lama is a complex of red temples with a green roof where the younger brother of the Bogd Khan lived since 1908, Luvsan Haidav, a powerful lama monk. The monastery was closed in 1938 and later turned into a museum. This saved it from destruction. We visit it for the beauty of the external structure, embellished with paintings dedicated to the Buddha and for the masterpieces it contains (statues, ancient prayer books, Tsam masks, thankas, various objects and precious works …) In the afternoon time available for shopping. Full board and overnight in hotel.

After breakfast, we will head to Chinggis Khan Airport for our departure flight.